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CROSSES AND CHURCHWAY PATHS

IN THE LAND’S END PENINSULA

by Ian McNeil Cooke

TO VIEW ILLUSTRATIONS OF CROSSES AND CROSS BASES click here

THIS SERIES IS NOW COMPLETED

Volume One - St.Just-in-Penwith  SOLD OUT

but an edited reprint is now available

Volume Two - Sennen and St.Levan SOLD OUT

Volume Three - St.Buryan

Volume Four - Paul and Sancreed

Volume Five - Madron & Morvah

Volume Six - Gulval & Ludgvan

Volume Seven - Lelant, St.Ives & Towednack

Volume Eight - Zennor and Conclusions of Cross Survey

All volumes printed in black and white in A4 format.

Although books and articles have been published on Cornish crosses very little work is available on their relationship with the landscape - churchway paths in particular. This volume is the first of several intended to cover the Land’s End Peninsula and includes a number of hitherto unpublished mid-19th century drawings of broken, moved and ‘lost’ crosses, as well as detailed maps and lists of relevant field names relating to crosses and churchways and their probable routes to the parish church from settlements recorded prior to 1400.

Many of these ancient routes, being an important part of West Cornwall’s unique heritage some probably going back to the late prehistoric period, now form part of today’s network of public rights of way and, as such, deserve far better attention from the authorities than they presently receive. It is hoped that these volumes will provide the necessary information for their conservation.

Volume One - ST.JUST IN PENWITH - with an Introduction to Settlement and Ownership of Land, Churchways and Field Names

This edition is now sold out but an edited reprint (without the Ordnance Survey maps and sketches by J.T.Blight) is now available.

Volume Two – SENNEN AND ST.LEVAN SOLD OUT

Published in February 2000 in A4 paperback format of 80 pages including over 65 maps, photographs and line illustrations, some by J.T.Blight (1850's) which have never been published before.

Volume Three - ST.BURYAN

Published in July 2000 in A4 paperback format of 94 pages including over 98 maps, photographs and line illustrations.

Volume Four - PAUL AND SANCREED

Published in April 2001 in A4 paperback format of 137 pages including over 125 maps, photographs and illustrations.

Volume Five - MADRON & MORVAH

Published in February 2002 in A4 paperback format of 122 pages including over 120 maps, photographs and illustrations.

Volume Six - GULVAL & LUDGVAN

Published in July 2002 in A4 paperback format of 94 pages including over 98 photographs and illustrations.

Volume Seven - LELANT, ST.IVES & TOWEDNACK

Published in November 2003 in usual A4 paperback format of 124 pages including over 120 black and white photographs, illustrations and maps.

Volume Eight - ZENNOR & CONCLUSIONS OF CROSS SURVEY

Published in July 2004 in usual A4 paperback format of 100 pages including over 120 black and white photographs, illustrations and maps.

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" My starting point for discovering churchway paths was to record any field names pertaining to such paths and to ways. In addition I looked for names relating to crosses no longer in existence. Where a known footpath, lane or modern road crosses or adjoins a field with a churchway or cross name then I have taken that route to have been a churchway path, at least since the date of the Tithe Maps (c.1840's). Where a Grouse (Cornish for stone cross) field is crossed by a highway then I have taken this to indicate that an ancient stone cross did actually once stand in that field near the path. Prior to the late 17th century very few field names were recorded, so that churchway paths before that date can only be guessed at in relation to names recorded later and to various types of highway. Although routes undoubtedly altered over the centuries most hamlets and farms in the Land's End Peninsula were recorded before the middle of the 14th century and many, together with the parish churches, must have been built on settlement sites dating back before the Anglo-Saxon conquest of Cornwall in the 10th century, or even to the later prehistoric period." (extract from Vol.1 page 6)

 

 

In this part of Cornwall, as, indeed, throughout the whole county generally, the bodies are borne at funerals, sometimes for several miles, to the church.....along the heath covered and rocky hills, and though the sweet overshadowed lanes of the evergreen and fertile valleys of the county, the funeral procession, as it winds its way to the 'house appointed for all living', is oftentimes heard to break forth suddenly in a melancholy cadence, chanting a psalm or hymn when it halts on the way to the church, which may be several miles distant from the dwelling of the deceased, at others singing a monotonous dirge-like psalm, as the bearers move along what is called the Leitch, or Leech path, up to the church, the effect of which is exceedingly impressive." (19th century description taken from Vol.1 page 19)

 

"Stone crosses were used for a variety of purpose. Following pagan practice early Christians used special stones to sanctify crossing places - fords and bridges across streams and rivers, entrances into sacred enclosures, at cross-roads and property boundaries." (extract from Vol.1 page 28)

 

"Due to its coastal position the parish (Sennen) was vulnerable to attack by pirates when too many people were absent, so that the dead 'cannot without danger be borne to the said church (St.Buryan)'. The parishioners begged the Pope to be allowed to make a cemetery by the church and, although the Dean of St.Buryan objected that he would loose his mortuary fees, the Pope granted the petition." (extract from Vol.2 page 8)

 

"Blight made an ink drawing (c.1850's) of a tall cross standing outside the former blacksmith's shop at Chygwidden (- the only known representation of this cross: by Langdon's time (1890's) it had disappeared. Langdon enlisted the help of the vicar in an endeavour to discover its fate: two old inhabitants were found who both agreed that the cross was broken up 'many years ago' - possibly cut in two and used as the threshold of a cottage door." (extract from Vol.2 page 59 which includes a reproduction of Blight's sketch)

 

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ILLUSTRATIONS OF CROSSES AND CROSS BASES

DESCRIBED IN DETAIL IN THE ABOVE VOLUMES

(photographed over the past 15 years)

"In situ" refers to cross or cross base very close to or at its original site

 

ST.JUST   SENNEN   ST.LEVAN   ST.BURYAN   PAUL   SANCREED   MADRON   MORVAH   GULVAL   LUDGVAN   LELANT   TOWEDNACK   ST.IVES   ZENNOR

 

REFERENCE &

PRESENT LOCATION

 

COMMENTS

Gulval 01

Churchyard Gulval

In situ?

Gulval 02

Churchyard Gulval

Moved from unknown location

Gulval 03

Four Parish Stone

In situ – recumbent rock with incised cross = Madron 6 = Morvah 1 = Zennor 7

Gulval 04

Bleu Bridge

Inscribed stone without cross. In situ

Gulval 05 

Rosemorran

Moved from unknown location

Gulval 06

Bishops Head and Foot

Lost cross = Towednack 5 = Zennor 14

Gulval 07

Churchtown

Back to Parish List

------------

Possible lost cross?

Lelant 01

Churchyard Lelant

In situ?

Lelant 02

Churchyard Lelant

Moved from Lelant Downs via several locations

Lelant 03

Churchyard Lelant

Moved from unknown location

Lelant 04

Cemetery (New) Lelant

Moved from Church Lane

Lelant 05

Cemetery (New) Lelant

Moved from unknown location

Lelant 06

Brunnion

In situ

Lelant 07

Church Lane Lelant

Moved from unknown location

Lelant 08

Gonwin

------------

Possible lost shaft remains

Lelant 09

Laity

-----------

Possible lost shaft remains

Lelant 10

Churchtown Lelant

Moved from unknown location

Lelant 11

Lelant Saltings

In situ

Lelant 12

Laity

------------

Missing cross

Lelant 13

Trencrom

------------

Missing cross base; relates to Lelant 2

Lelant 14

Trencrom

Back to Parish List

------------

Possible missing cross

Ludgvan 01

Churchyard Ludgvan

Moved from unknown location

Ludgvan 02

Churchyard Ludgvan

Moved from unknown location

Ludgvan 03

Churchyard Ludgvan

Moved from unknown location

Ludgvan 04

Church Belfry Ludgvan

Moved from unknown location

Ludgvan 05

Treassowe

Moved from unknown location

Ludgvan 06

Tregender

Moved from unknown location

Ludgvan 07

White Cross

Back to Parish List

In situ?

Madron 01

Churchyard Madron

Moved from unknown location

Madron 02

Church Madron

Moved from unknown location

Madron 03

Churchyard Madron

Moved from unknown location

Madron 04

Boswarthen

In situ

Madron 05

Buryas Bridge

In situ

Madron 06 close-up

4 Parish Stone

In situ – recumbent rock = Morvah 1, Gulval 3, Zennor 7

Madron 07

Heamoor

Moved short distance

Madron 08

Heamoor

------------

Base in situ (no photo)

Madron 09

Heamoor/Poltair

------------

Doubtful base? (no photo)

Madron 10

Boscathnoe

In situ

Madron 11

Men Scryfa

In situ

Madron 12

Churchyard Newlyn

Moved from unknown location

Madron 13

Parc-an-Growes

In situ?

Madron 14

Penlee Museum Penzance

Moved from Greenmarket via several locations

Madron 15

Churchyard St.Mary’s Penzance

Moved from St.Anthony’s Chapel

Madron 16

Trengwainton

In situ

Madron 17

Tremethick Cross

Moved = Paul 16

Madron 18

Trereife

Back to Parish List

Moved = Paul 15

Morvah 01

4 Parish Stone

In situ – recumbent rock = Madron 6 = Gulval 3 = Zennor 7

Morvah 02

Back to Parish List

------------

Base missing, location unknown

Paul 01

Churchyard Paul

In situ

Paul 02

Churchtown Paul

In situ

Paul 03

Halwyn

Moved short distance

Paul 04 former location

Halwyn

Base moved to Paul 3

Paul 05

Kemyel Drea

Moved short distance

Paul 06

Kerris

Moved from Carnalanga

Paul 07

Kerris

Original location unknown

Paul 08

Newlyn (Gwavas)

Moved short distance

Paul 09

Trungle

In situ

Paul 10

Tredavoe

------------

Base missing (no photo)

Paul 11

Mousehole (Harlowe)

Probably modern

Paul 12

Mousehole, Springfield

------------

Cross missing (no photo)

Paul 13

Kerris

------------

Base missing (no photo)

Paul 14

Castallack

Moved, may belong to Paul 14 (Raginnis)

Paul 15

former location

Moved from Sheffield (Paul Down) = Madron 18 Trereife

Paul 16

former location

Moved from Sheffield (Roseanbeagle) = Madron 17 Tremethick Cross,

Paul 17

Newlyn

Back to Parish List

Moved from outside parish

Sancreed 01

Churchyard Sancreed

In situ

Sancreed 02

Churchyard Sancreed

Moved from unknown location.  Base = Sancreed 11

Sancreed 03

Churchyard Sancreed

Moved from Trannack

Sancreed 04

Churchyard Sancreed

Moved from Sellan

Sancreed 05

Churchyard Sancreed

Moved from Anjarden

Sancreed 06

Brane

In situ

Sancreed 07

Drift

Moved short distance

Sancreed 08

Trenuggo

Moved from unknown location nearby

Sancreed 09

Penryn

------------

Cross moved to Penryn (no photo)

Sancreed 10

= moved from unknown location in Sancreed to St.Just Vicarage

Sancreed 11

Treganhoe

------------

Base moved, used for Sancreed 2

Sancreed 12

Boslow

------------

Possible cross missing = St.Just 12

Sancreed 13

Catchall/Trenuggo

------------

Broken cross missing. Base may be Sancreed 14

Sancreed 14

Catchall/Trenuggo

------------

Base missing. May relate to Sancreed 13

Sancreed 15

Sellan

------------

Base missing

Sancreed 16

Back to Parish List

------------

Missing from unknown location

Sennen 01a

Churchyard Sennen

Moved from Trevear

Sennen 01a

former location

 

Sennen 01b

Churchyard Sennen

Moved from near Giants Grave

Sennen 01b

former location

 

Sennen 02

Brew

Unearthed nearby and placed in modern base

Sennen 03

former location

Moved from Escalls to Carn Towan (no photo)

Sennen 04

Mayon Sennen Green

In situ

Sennen 05

Trevescan

Moved a short distance

Sennen 06

Trevilley

In situ - base by side of cross

Sennen 07

former location

Moved = St.Just 9b

Sennen 08

Treve

Back to Parish List

------------

Base missing but probably once belonged to Sennen 1a

St.Buryan 01

Churchyard St.Buryan

In situ

St.Buryan 02

Churchtown St.Buryan

In situ

St.Buryan 03

Alsia

Moved from near Alsia Well?

St.Buryan 04

Alsia

May belong to St.Buryan 3?

St.Buryan 05

Boskenna

In situ in modern base

St.Buryan 06

Boskenna Stile

In situ on modern shaft

St.Buryan 07

Boskenna Gate

In situ

St.Buryan 08

Choone

In situ

St.Buryan 09

Crows-an-Wra

In situ

St.Buryan 10

Merry Maidens

Probably moved slightly from St.Buryan 11

St.Buryan 11

Merry Maidens

In situ, probably belongs to St.Buryan 10

St.Buryan 12

Tregurnow

In situ

St.Buryan 13

Penberth (private garden)

------------

Cross from unknown location (no photo)

St.Buryan 14

Pendrea

In situ

St.Buryan 15

Pendrea

In situ

St.Buryan 16

Trevorian

In situ

St.Buryan 17

Trevorian

In situ

St.Buryan 18

Trevorgans

Moved from No Man’s land, now in modern base

St.Buryan 19

Higher Trevorian

Moved from unknown location

St.Buryan 20

Vellansaga

In situ

St.Buryan 21

Alsia Mill

------------

Cross and base missing

St.Buryan 22

Trelew

------------

Base missing

St.Buryan 23

Lower Leah

------------

Possible cross missing

St.Buryan 24

No Man’s Land

Back to Parish List

Cross missing

St.Ives 01

Churchyard St.Ives

In situ?

St.Ives 02

Halsetown

Moved from unknown location

St.Ives 03

Penbeagle

In situ?

St.Ives 04

Trowan

Probable shaft remains at stile

St.Ives 05

Ayr

------------

Cross missing

St.Ives 06

Carn Crowze

Back to Parish List

------------

Cross missing

St.Just 01a

Church St.Just

Original location unknown

St.Just 01b

Church St.Just

Original location unknown

St.Just 01c

Church Entrance

Back in situ after several moves - original base missing

St.Just 01d

By side of church porch

Moved from No-Go.By = St.Just 16

St.Just 02a

Bosorne Road

 

Broken base

St.Just 02b

Built into cottage by St.Just church

Doubtful piece of cross shaft

St.Just 02c

St.Just South Place

------------

Boundary stone? (no photo)

St.Just 03

Boslow

In situ

St.Just 04

Leswidden

In situ

St.Just 05

Gurland

------------

Possible missing cross base (no photo)

St.Just 06

Nanquidno

Moved from near Nanjulian chapel

St.Just 06

former location of base

Cross base pieces moved from churchway fields to Nanquidno Cross

St.Just 07

Churchyard Pendeen

Moved from Portheras Cross

St.Just 07

former location

 

St.Just 08

Cape Cornwall Chapel

Moved from unknown location nearby

St.Just 09a

Boscean Hotel

Moved - possibly from Grouse Hill

St.Just 09b

Boscean Hotel

Moved = Sennen 7